ou can't get a name more generic than Asian Restaurant and Bar. But make no mistake about it; this is no standard by-the-numbers establishment. The setting alone, the historical Thong Chai Medical Institution Building, is inspired, and the décor, with its careful reworking of existing architectural elements blended with chi-chi neo-Orientalia, commands attention. Not to mention the dolled-up, designer-clad staff.

But then what else can result from a partnership between a French food and beverage company and Singapore's leading purveyor of modern Chinese dining?

The S$2-million Asian Restaurant and Bar (ARB) is the first joint venture of SGX-listed Tung Lok Group and Paris-based Copilot Developments. The concept actually originated in Paris, where Asian opened in 1999 at the famous Le Triangle d'Or (Golden Triangle) area.

Jean-Philippe Trieu, founder of Asian Paris and majority owner of Copilot, said he wanted to show a different image of Asia in Europe, noting that many Europeans still think of Asians as either taxi drivers or computer workers.

"I wanted to change the stereotyped ideas that Westerners have of Asian people," said Trieu, who is half Chinese-Vietnamese, during the media launch of Asian Singapore. "I wanted a concept of a very modern Asia while still presenting the strong traditions and culture of Asia."

The 16,000-sq.ft. Asian restaurant in the French capital showcases the range and complexity of Asian food from Chinese and Thai to Vietnamese and Indonesian, while the staff are all of Asian descent. Trieu reported that it broke even last year.

When Trieu first met Tung Lok chief executive and president Andrew Tjioe two years ago at a food show, he was merely looking to bring a chef from Singapore to Paris in order to help improve the quality of the restaurant's food. But he got more than what he asked for.

With nearly 20 restaurants in its portfolio, Tung Lok has continuously made headlines in recession-hit Singapore for its bullish expansion plans. In the second half of this year, Tung Lok opened five restaurants, with more outlets planned for next year. For this, Tjioe has won a string of business awards, the latest and most prestigious of which was the Tourism Entrepreneur of the Year given by the Singapore Tourism Board (STB).

Singapore has always identified itself as the capital of New Asia, and the idea of bringing the Parisian restaurant to the Lion City had obvious appeal. STB's Patrick Lau said they are keen in promoting new innovative concepts in Singapore to improve the variety of its lifestyle attractions. "We were prepared to help them make it happen," Lau said about ARB.

At 1,100 sq.ft., ARB is indeed a showcase for Singapore, and its historic location really drives the message across.

The Thong Chai Medical Institution Building, built in 1892, was funded by Singapore's early settlers and gave free medical treatment to the poor. But more importantly, it allowed and promoted the idea of multiculturalism in an era of racial segregation as a "hospital for all races." It was acquired by the government in the 1970s and declared a national monument.

But instead of making its old buildings a passive reminder of its past, Singapore has allowed a number of these historic structures to be transformed into commercial and public spaces, such as the former convent Chijmes (now a complex of bars and restaurants), and the former post office building which has become the Fullerton Hotel.

Nonetheless, this policy has generated controversy among Singaporeans. When the Thong Chai Medical Institution Building was first leased out and turned into the Lan Kwai Fong dance club, some members of the local Chinese community protested the club's hedonistic nature, which they believed "sullied its virtuous history."

Tjioe is aware of the building's importance, promising "our forefathers who established Thong Chai building will be happy to see the changes."

Poole Associates, which did ARB's interior, was also careful in making enhancements to the structure, ensuring that the original elements like the calligraphy panels and doors continue to be the focal points to the décor. The contrast between the modern and the old are emphasized, through the use of high-tech fabrics and materials interacting with antiques like old mahjong tables and black-stained bamboo chairs.

Asian is divided into five different areas. As soon as guests enter the circular dragon gate, they are greeted with a courtyard with water features dubbed as La Cour, which has ponds and wooden bridges. This connects to Le Bistro with its casual sofas and low tables, while a winding staircase takes them to the more formal fine dining area Le Brasserie.

Le Bar is on the other side of the bistro and opens up to Le Jardin, a wine bar where guests can also avail of neck and back massages.

But fortunately Asian isn't just a superficial beauty. At a recent private dinner at Le Brasserie, the food proved to be as stylish as the surrounds.

Trieu admits that the menu focus in Singapore is more Chinese than the one in France, and modern Chinese is a Tung Lok specialty. The Singapore restaurant group is also behind such culinary destinations as Club Chinois, House of Mao, and Jade, which won most innovative menu at this year's Wine & Dine Awards. Tung Lok director of kitchen Sam Leong was also chosen as best ethnic chef at the inaugural World Gourmet Summit Awards of Excellence.

The starter featured two perfectly prepared prawns (firm, juicy and not overcooked) artfully placed on a white plate with the lime green-colored honshimeiji mushrooms providing a wonderful visual and textural contrast, with a fine "net" crisp providing a subtle salty flavor and careful drops of Sichuan vinaigrette faintly enhancing the taste of the fresh prawns. The first of the mains, a small piece of pan-fried beef topped with sesame seeds was more pronounced in terms of flavor, while the roast lamb chop had a soft but discernible sweetish taste commonly found in many Asian dishes. The other main, a square piece of tofu with spinach and compoy, was amazing in terms of texture (soft but not soggy) and delicacy, a perfect example of modern Chinese cuisine. The dessert was an invigorating cold soup of finely pureed avocado with a scoop of café latte-flavored ice cream.

It was truly an interesting, refreshingly grown-up dining experience. It proved without a doubt that not only does Asian reeks of style, it also has the substance to back it up.

Finally there are the beautiful, welcoming staff, who also possess a fine mix of Parisian sophistication and Asian beauty.

After his success in Singapore, Trieu promises to bring the Asian concept to other cities. "I love this challenge and this opportunity, but this is just the start," he said. "Perhaps next, we will be in Shanghai or in Taipei, and certainly, sometime, in Tokyo. This is my dream.

"And when we are done in Asia, perhaps then we will go back to Europe and maybe to New York."

Asian Restaurant and Bar
50 Eu Tong Sen Street
Singapore 059803
Tel: (65) 532-6006
Email: asian@tunglok.com