by Chary Mercado

he lush island of Camiguin is the perfect antidote to the traffic jams and pollution that define daily life in the capital of Manila. It is a destination for the traveler whose idea of paradise doesn't hinge on super-styled resorts, strips of hot bars and bikini-clad women.

For there is nothing easy about getting to this tiny island located in the Bohol Sea, nothing fancy about the lodgings or meals and not much of a nightlife. The main attraction is the sheer concentration of natural wonders on an island with a circumference of only 64 kilometers.

The seven dormant volcanoes on the island give Camiguin the greatest density of such craters anywhere in the world. The highest is Mt. Hibok Hibok, which makes for a challenging trek at 1,250 meters high.

It is also the most active, having erupted without warning in 1951 and killed 600 residents of Camiguin. Mount Vulcan Dean exploded in 1871, wiping out the main Spanish colonial settlement of Bonbon.

But today the mist-covered volcanoes that watch over Camiguin are quiet. And government volcanologists keep a close eye on any unusual seismic activity, limiting the risk to visitors.

History buffs may be interested in visiting the remains of Gui-Ob Church, a structure that was ruined by the Mount Vulcan Dean eruption. A solitary white cross marks the town's cemetery, now submerged underwater about 100 meters offshore.

A plaque at the church outlines the island's long history, which included a visit by the famous Spanish explorer Magellan in 1521. Magellan was beheaded later that year by a local tribal chief named Lapu Lapu.

Camiguin also offers a wide array of water-related attractions -- falls and rivers, cold and hot natural springs and, of course, the wide expanse of the Mindanao sea.

One of the most famous and photographed is the majestic 50-meter Katibawasan falls. Nearby, the Santo Nino cold springs form icy swimming pools for adults and children. And Ardent Hot Springs, which gush from Mount Hibok Hibok, are the perfect cure for tired muscles at the end of a hard day of trekking.

The mist-covered volcanoes that watch over Camiguin are quiet and government scientists keep a close eye on any unusual seismic activity.

For those looking to spend some time playing in the open sea, White Island is probably the best bet. While most of Camuigin's shoreline is rocky, a kilometer offshore sits this white sandbar. But you have to bring your own tent or a lot of sunscreen, because there are no structures on White Island.

There are two high seasons on Camiguin, the end of October for the picturesque Lanzones (a native fruit) festival and the summer months of April-June. During the four-day Easter break, Camiguin comes alive again as people from nearby islands come to join the Panaad -- a "promise" to walk around the whole island as a form of Lenten sacrifice.

One highlight of this trek, which takes two days, is a hike up a 500-meter hill where one passes crumbling life-sized statues depicting different stations of Jesus' crucifixion.

Getting to Camiguin: From the international ports of entry in Manila, Cebu or Davao, you have a choice of several domestic airlines to Cagayan de Oro City. From there, you can take a bus for the 90-minute trip to the port of Balingoan in Misamis Oriental. There used to be a fast ferry that would take you from a nearer port to the island, but that went out of business in late 1999 - proof that high-end tourism has not yet reached unspoiled Camiguin.

Tickets for tourists on the boat are 30 pesos one way. While these big boats are not for the squeamish -- every seat will likely be filled and safety gear is not within sight -- they give you a great opportunity to bond with the locals and view the scenery. You have all the time you need to get past the pleasantries and discussions about the weather, because the boat takes another 90 minutes to get to the island's Benoni wharf.

Where to stay: You can make on-the-spot inquiries about lodging at a tourism office right in front of the port of Benoni. While there are many places you can rent a simple room, there are only two or three upscale resorts that have private baths, air-conditioning, swimming pool and jacuzzis and cable TV.

The most famous one is Paras. Located closest to White Island, this resort offers many water activities such as parasailing. The relatively new Bahay Bakasyunan - which means vacation house - has a splendid pool and several air-conditioned cottages with private baths (at about 3000 pesos per room).

Meals at these resorts are mainly simple but hearty native dishes, though they do carry an assortment of foreign dishes on the a la carte menu. For good seafood, try eating at the fish pens just past the Benoni port.