If time is precious, test the adage that the best things are closest to you. For downtown hotel guests, the Oberoi Shopping Center is the place to shop in air conditioned comfort for fashion wear and exotica. For Taj Mahal Hotel guests, there are in-house boutiques, the Cottage Industries Emporium around the corner and the Colaba district in the backyard.

Specific items are available in certain areas: fashion fabrics at sari shops along Queens Road (Maharishi Karve Road); casual wear along Colaba Causeway and the so-called Fashion Street (M.G. Road); and books along Phirozeshah Mehta Road. The city's fixed-price state emporia are best for souvenirs such as papier mache items from Kashmir, ivory paintings from Rajasthan or mirror work from Gujarat.

For the ultimate bazaar experience with the sweat, dust, colors and sounds of Mumbai, take a taxi to a bustling market. Chor Bazaar (Thieves' Market), Zaveri Bazaar (gold and silver markets) or Mangaldas Market (textiles) teem with humanity, handcarts and honking vehicles. One can return with an antique clock, silver anklets or woven silk or just an incredible encounter with the real Mumbai.

Department stores have fixed prices but there is scope for bargaining at most shops. Shops are open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Monday to Saturday. Hotel shops and some stores along Colaba Causeway remain open on Sunday. Credit cards are accepted at most stores.

Markets

Crawford Market
L. T. Road
This historic market was built in Norman Gothic style in the late 19th century and the bas reliefs were inspired by the works of William Morris and carried out by Lockwood Kipling's department at the J. J. School of Art. Inside is the largest fresh produce market in Mumbai, where one can purchase everything from flowers, fruits, vegetables and meat to fish. There are also mini bazaars selling bambooware, hardware, tobacco and imported foods. At the pets bazaar one can buy pets from cockatoos, love birds, cats, dogs and rabbits to tropical fish. The prices are reasonable and bargaining is the norm.

Chor Bazaar
Mutton Street
Commonly called Thieves Market, this is a hustling and bustling market selling a range of old and new furniture and bric-a-brac. The traders have been in this business for generations and scour the countryside for goods to sell in the market. Prepare to rummage. Adventurous shoppers have unearthed treasures amid the grimy profusion of antiques and junk, Victorian bric-a-brac, old clocks, Chinese vases and carved furniture -- after some bargaining.

Kalbadevi
Even if you are in no mood for shopping, no visit to Mumbai is complete without a foray into the bazaars of Kalbadevi, north of Crawford Market. The narrow lanes of this predominantly Muslim area are a seething mass of people who bring the local traffic to a standstill. It is here that you can buy anything from jewelry (Zaveri Bazaar), material (Mangaldas Market), household goods (Bhuleshwar Road), stationery (Abdul Rehman Street) or electrical items (Lohar Chawl). The Mumbadevi Temple on Sheikh Memon St. is dedicated to the patron goddess of the island's original Koli inhabitants, and is one of Mumbai's main pilgrimage centers.

Malls and department stores

Akbarally's
45 Veer Nariman Rd.
Fort
Tel: 204-4213
This pioneering department store is keeping up with the times with a stronger emphasis on apparel, accessories and consumer durables. A gent's suit by Raymonds is considered a status symbol by locals. (For silk dress shirts for men, the top brand is Charagh Din at 81 Wodehouse Road in Colaba. Established 50 years ago, CD presents the largest collections of men's shirts in Mumbai.)

The Bombay Store
Western India House
Sir P M Rd.
Fort
Tel: 287-3443
This department store is the place to buy rugs, textiles, home furnishings, books, stationary, and gift items. One can also buy interesting contemporary crafts such as candles and handmade paper, as well as local fashion like kurtas, salwar kameez (the tunic over loose pants ensemble worn by Indian women), shawls and saris. Open on Sundays.

Crossroads
M.M. Malviya Rd.
Tardeo
A glittering, Western-style shopping complex with escalators linking several floors of shopping. Its 130 stores selling branded goods, fashion items and fast food are a bit attraction for locals -- and main cause of traffic jams in the area.

Elco Arcade
Hill Rd.
Bandra West
Open: 10 a.m.-8:30 p.m.
Located in the heart of Bandra district, this local favorite is popular for clothes, textiles, jewelry and leather goods. Bargaining is allowed in many of the shops here.

Indraprasth Shopping Center
S.V. Rd.
Borivali West
Tel: 806-9134
Open: 10 a.m.-9 p.m.
This three-story mall offers a wide selection of shops selling pret-a-porter for men, women and children, from ethnic garments and casual wear to fancy clothing, plus accessories, jewelry and lingerie.

Oberoi Shopping Center
Oberoi Hotel
Nariman Point
This hotel arcade has specialty stores selling jewelry, carpets and fashion items. At Christina, fashionable silk ensembles for ladies and shirts for men are an attraction. Nearby, at Ritu's the emphasis is on Indian outfits for ladies. The leather shop Personal Affairs stocks wallets, handbags, briefcases, belts and jackets.

Taj Shopping Center
Taj Mahal Hotel
Apollo Bunder
One of the better hotel arcades in Mumbai, the Taj has an elite selection of stores specializing in silk, carpets, leather goods, clothes and handicraft. Reputable jeweler Gazdars displays heirloom and contemporary jewelry at its upmarket shop, while Ravissant is known for its haute couture men's and women's wear. For fine silks, check the goods at Burlington or Indian Textiles Co. The arcade also houses Nalanda, considered among the top book stores in the city.

Vama Department Store
72 Peddar Rd.
Kemp's Corner
Tel: 387-1450
This department store in one of Mumbai's priciest districts is known for carrying popular international labels like Lacoste, Nike, Reebok and Benetton. But do check out its selection of Paithani saris, which are made of hand woven silk with real gold and silver thread. It even has a car showroom.

Souvenirs

The best places to buy traditional souvenirs like Indian handicrafts made of brass and sandalwood, and also fabrics and garments unique to the region are the various state government emporia. Here, prices are fixed and the quality genuine. The arcade at the World Trade Center boasts of many state government emporia promoting local arts and crafts.

Central Cottage Industries Emporium
34 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Marg
Colaba
Tel: 282-8876, 202-6410

Gangotri-Uttar Pradesh Export Corp.
38 World Trade Center
Cuffe Parade
Tel: 218-8187

Gujarat Emporium
Khetan Bhavan
J. Tata Rd.
Churchgate
Tel: 285-2143

Himachal Pradesh Handicrafts Emporium
World Trade Center
Cuffe Parade
Tel: 218-1725

Jammu & Kashmir Emporium
World Trade Center
Cuffe Parade
Tel: 218-9718

Kairal-Kerala Government Emporium
Nirman Bldg.
Nariman Point
Tel: 202-6817

Khadi & Village Industries Emporium
286 Dr. D. N. Rd.
Fort
Tel: 209-8951