Bollywood actually accounts for less than half of India's total film output, but as the purveyor of the Hindi blockbuster, Bollywood is considered the personification of all-Indian cinema, appreciated by locals, regardless of region and religion. Bollywood movies are rather formulaic and include a hodgepodge of themes from romance to violence. There is a great deal of sexual repression, plenty of stock characters, and the obligatory dream sequence. Finally, there is music. Lots of it. Unlike Western soundtracks, Bollywood songs are actually filmed as production numbers, and one film can have six songs, even more. The popularity of Bollywood is such that these songs practically dictate the direction of Indian pop music.

Despite the popularity of film in India, there are only a handful of movie houses in Mumbai that show English-language films. But you can watch them properly -- screened at the once grand, art deco style theaters of the 1930s. Among these are Regal at Colaba, Eros at Churchgate and Metro at Dhobi Talao and at the Sterling, New Empire and New Excelsior. Hollywood movies arrive on average six months after their U.S. release. Book ahead as tickets for good movies sell out in advance.

Mumbai's art scene isn't just confined to Bollywood and the glamorous lifestyle of its movie stars. The city also attracts many of the country's top talents in other fields from musicians to painters. Mumbai's theater and art scenes are quite lively, with plenty of new work on display. The finest classical Indian music and dance performances are also held regularly.

The city's art scene is centered in the historic Kala Ghoda area, where one finds majestic edifices of art and culture -- Elphinstone College, David Sassoon Library, Prince of Wales Museum, and others. Its status as the seat of Mumbai's cultural heritage has been preserved and many modern cultural institutions and galleries have also elected to locate in Kala Ghoda, which is the center of many of the city's art festivals.

Paintings are also among Mumbai's best buys.

Museums and galleries
Artists' Center
Edor House
K Dubash Marg
Kala Ghoda
Tel: 284-5939
Open: 11 a.m.-7 p.m.
One of the oldest art galleries in Mumbai, Artists' Center was opened by the Progressive Artists Group and was once the salon of the Bombay Art Society. This nonprofit gallery focuses on the promotion of young artists.

The Classic Source
Beach View
Chowpatty Seaface
Tel: 363-4523
Open: 11 a.m.-7 p.m.
This gallery deals in works by Indian masters, as well as those by India's most acclaimed contemporary artists. Beside the famed gallery is Art Point, which is also owned by art collectors Haresh and Gigi Chaganlal. Art Point specializes in works by up-and-coming artists, and aimed at budding collectors.

Fine Art Company
Raheja Chambers
Linking Road and Main Avenue
West Santacruz
Tel: 605-6455
Open: 11 a.m.-7 p.m except Sundays
This large suburban gallery is a venue for both visual and performing arts. Apart from representing several of Mumbai's veteran artists, as well as talented upstarts, the gallery is also a venue for Indian classical music performances, book readings and jazz concerts. It also has a well-stocked library.

Galleria
369 Dadabhai Naoroji Rd.
Fort
Tel: 284-1837
Open: 10:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m.
Apart from works by both established and young artists, this gallery is also in the furniture business, dealing in antique, restored, as well as new pieces.

Gallery Tao
Sarjan Plaza
100 Dr Annie Besant Rd.
Worli
Tel: 491-8585
Open: 10:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m. except Sundays
One of the newest art venues in Mumbai, Gallery Tao boasts of an impressive location and a diverse art calendar that also encourages more experimental works including installation art.

National Gallery of Modern Art
MG Rd.
Kala Ghoda
Tel: 285-2457
Open: 10 a.m.-5 p.m. except Monday
The former Sir Cowasji Jehangir Memorial Hall, once an impressive concert venue, now showcases a permanent art collection and visiting art shows. Nearby, at Jehangir Art Gallery, one can view contemporary works by Indian artists, then enjoy a cup of tea at Samovar garden café, a popular artist hangout.

Piramal Art Gallery
National Center for Performing Arts
Nariman Point
Tel: 283-3737
Open: 10:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m. except Sundays and Mondays
The only gallery in India exclusively devoted to photography, Piramal is part of the Center for Photography as an Art Form. Around 15 exhibitions are held every year and among the artists whose works have been displayed here are Ashwin Mehta. August Sander and Lee Friedlander. Seminars, lectures and workshops are also held regularly. It is equipped with an in-house photo laboratory, and has a huge collection of slides and books.

Performing arts

Excellent experimental as well as commercial plays in English are presented regularly. Symphony concerts, dances and operas by visiting international artists are generally sold out. Check the daily newspapers for listings.

Prithvi Theater
20 Janki Kutir
Juhu
Tel: 614-9546

National Center for the Performing Arts
Nariman Point
Tel: 283-3737, 283-3838

St. Andrew's Auditorium
St. Andrew's College
Hill Rd.
Bandra West
Tel: 645-9667

Sophia Bhabha
Sophia College
Bhulabhai Desai Rd.
Tel: 367-8550, 363-0157