By Abraham Mathai
Worldroom.com

he diesel-hauled, blue-and-cream train starts with a jerk. There's a collective gasp of anticipation as the picnickers, holiday-makers and honeymooners aboard the five coaches begin the trip from Neral to Matheran.

As the train gains momentum, soft-drink vendors and passengers move from one carriage to the other, clutching the windows and door bars to maintain balance. The quaint little locomotive chugs slowly through spectacular grassy hillsides, plains, cliffs, plateaus and thick forest cover peppered with monkeys, trekkers and local inhabitants. The train passes through the One Kiss Tunnel - so named because it's so narrow that the train literally kisses the sides.

Two hours and 21 kilometers later, the train has reached Matheran -- and the teeming madness of Mumbai is all but forgotten.

At 803 meters (2,636 ft) above sea level, Matheran is the most splendid hill-station in Maharashtra. It covers an area of eight square kilometer in the Western Ghats, also known as the Sahyadris. There's a ban on motor vehicles and even bicycles. One moves around on horseback or hand-, horse- or bullock-pulled carts. Or, one simply walks with coolies alongside to carry your luggage.

A few years ago, there was a move to bring a tarred road into this territory -- against the wishes of most. The new hotel owners argued that the road would bring in more tourists. But it was finally decided that the road would ultimately destroy the very beauty and quietude that tourists come here to enjoy.

Hugh Poyntz Malet, the collector of Thane district, "discovered" this picturesque spot in 1850. Matheran grew more accessible and popular under the patronage of Lord Elphinstone, the Governor of Bombay. He visited Matheran in 1855 and was mesmerized. He chose a beautiful site for a bungalow and named the mansion Elphinstone Lodge. Later, he built a road from Neral to Matheran, and in 1907, opened the mountain railway.

The Brits also had two churches built here, the Anglican St. Paul's Church and the Roman Catholic Church. These and several other palatial buildings are still the pride of the town. Many of them, though now in ruins, haven't lost their old-world charm. They are taken care of by the local Parsi and Muslim families and make for a lovely sightseeing trip on the side. Meanwhile, a few of the erstwhile bungalows are making way for plush hotels, complete with swimming pools, discotheques and health clubs.

Matheran is dotted with about 33 lookout points -- many of them with quaint names -- from where you get spectacular views of the plains below or across the Western Ghats. You can hike your way to these through the woodlands.

Matheran is dotted with about 33 lookout points -- many of them with quaint names -- from where you get spectacular views of the plains below or across the Western Ghats. You can hike your way to these through the woodlands. Panorama Point, five kilometers north of the post office, has the finest view. Below lies Neral, to the west is Mumbai and to the north are the mountains. The sunrises and sunsets are very dramatic.

Hart Point and Monkey Point look down on the plains. Porcupine Point is mostly crowded during sunset, so to avoid the rush, consider Panorama Point. Coronation Point, to the south, marked the ceremony of King Edward VII in 1903. You could visit a small Hanuman (Monkey God) temple, at Hashya Cha Patti village, a short walk away from Malang Point.

To the west of the post office, Louisa Point shows off a beautiful plateau and the ruins of the Prabal fort. Hear your own voice bounce back at you at Echo Point. One Tree Point, Shivaji's Ladder and Chowk are also worth a look. To the east, Rambagh lies just two kilometers away, looking straight onto Khandala and Karjat. You can see Chowk valley and the Ulhas river from Alexander Point. Khandala Point and Mount Barry are a couple of other worthy sight seeing spots.

The main drinking water for the town comes from Charlotte Lake, away from the edge of the hilltop. The lake has a splendid view with the dam at one end and a temple at the other. Breathtaking and shrouded in mist, these sights cover the length and breadth of Matheran.

The main Mahatma Gandhi Road is lined with shops of all shapes and sizes that form the main bazaar. You could shop around for the famous chikki (brittle peanut) sweet and local honey. There are other things of interest, too, especially the footwear. Master craftsmen take orders for sandals, shoes or riding boots and are quick with their service. You could also buy walking sticks, snacks, etc., from the bazaar.

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Some fast facts about Matheran:

Climate: Matheran is pleasant throughout the year, but the best time to visit is from October to May. In summer, the maximum temperature is 32°C and the minimum, 21°C. In winter, it comes down to 15°C.

Clothing: Loose cotton attire is suitable and comfortable during summer and in winter light woolens are preferred.

Transportation: The nearest airport is Mumbai, 131 kilometers away. A mountain railway with Neral connects Matheran, which is on the Mumbai-Pune line of the Central Railway. This train service, is however suspended during the monsoons (June 15 - October 15 approximately). Roads also connect Matheran with Neral and Mumbai. Taxis and private vehicles travel between Mumbai/Neral and Matheran. However, vehicles are all parked at Dasturi Naka, 3 kilometers on the outskirts, and are not allowed into Matheran.

Languages spoken: Marathi, Hindi and English.

What to buy: The famous chikki sweets, local honey, masterfully crafted footwear and unique cane goods which are very inexpensive

Accommodation: Most hotel bookings can be done in Mumbai. Here are a select few:

The Byke Retreat
Rs 2,600 to Rs 3,500
Tel: +91-2148 30-365 to 7
Mumbai contact: +91-22 206-8602

Usha Ascot
Rs 2,600 to Rs 5,600
Tel: +91-2148 30-360; 30-522
Mumbai contact: +91-22 204-7555

Brightlands Resorts Pvt Ltd
Rs 1,200 to Rs 1,800
Tel: +91-2148 30-417; 30-418
Mumbai contact: +91-22 645-9639; 204-7555

Royal Hotel
Rs 1,100 to Rs 1,600
Tel: +91-2148 30-247; 30-345
Mumbai contact: +91-22 387-2784; 389-5891

Hotel Regal
Rs 2,400 to Rs 2,800
Tel: +91-2148 30-243; 30-287
Mumbai contact: +91-22 201-7264

Hotel Rugby
Rs 2,600 to Rs 3,400
Tel: +91-2148 302-148
Mumbai contact: +91-22 282-1721

Lord's Central
Rs 750 to Rs 1,100
Tel: +91-2148 30-228

Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) Holiday Resort
Rs 300 upwards
Tel: +91-2148 30-277
Mumbai contact: +91-22 202-6713